South Africa Visit 2009

Elise Bailey, Isabel Hardy, Charlotte Hawkes, Harry Hurd, Cameron Jones, Imogen Nation, Rhea Patel, Charlie Pollard, Joe Shellard, Madeleine Storey, Abigail Tyer, Alexander Woodward

Having survived our overnight journey we were met at Cape Town airport by Werner Cloete, who had spent a year teaching at Berkhamsted, and we were soon off to our first destination. Despite dozing in the back, we managed to take in both the stunning scenery and the startling sight of a township before arriving at the mist-wreathed winery of Vergelegen. We toured the nineteenth century buildings and breathed in the freshness of the manicured grounds.

We then returned to Cape Town's Waterfront for the ferry to Robben Island. The short sea voyage passed uneventfully and we were soon hearing the melancholy history of this leper colony cum mental hospital cum political prison. Our guide had himself been held for his role in the military wing of the ANC. He spoke informatively as he led us from the communal cells, through the yard where Nelson Mandela laboured and then past the cell in which the great man had been incarcerated.

That evening we went to the Paul Roos Gymnasium, in Stellenbosch to meet our host families who kindly accommodated us for two nights.

The next day we enjoyed spectacular views of Table Mountain, a boat trip to Seal Island and the natural beauty of the coast as we drove to Simon's Town where we engaged in some penguin watching and rock scampering. In the evening our hosts took us to a traditional African restaurant where our faces were painted with tribal markings and everyone danced and ate too much of the wonderful food from the buffet.

The following day we had a brief wander through old Stellenbosch and then joined our hosts to attend a lesson with them. After saying our goodbyes we were on our way to East London. These two and a half days gave us a brief exposure to the wealthier side of South Africa with which to compare our time in the Eastern Cape.

Having flown into East London we drove to Qunu just outside Umtata. While staying there we visited 'The Great Place' where Mandela lived from the age of nine. It was hard to believe how such an important site had not become more of a tourist destination. We stood in the rondaval in which Mandela and the Regent's son, Justice, had lived and we saw where Mandela went to church and school. The Chief came especially to see us and we also had the opportunity to meet Justice's wife. Our visit had a surprising conclusion when one of the girls received a proposal of marriage from the Chief!

Sandi is very remote and requires a half hour drive along a very bumpy road but the scenery we passed was stunning with the traditional rondavals, mountains and idyllic views. Before reaching Sandi we drove across a field and pulled up outside a small group of buildings which made up the Junior School of Mjongele. At first there was a strange lack of children but we were soon put at ease as we rounded a corner and saw them neatly lined up. However, even an orderly assembly could not contain the infectious excitement caused by our visit and we received many interested gazes and shy smiles. We were given a short tour around the very basic school site and were all upset by the shortage of chairs and desks. The group was then led into a waiting circle of children to receive a warm welcome. The following recital by the school choir was breathtaking. No one had realised that such a small group of small people could create such a vibrant and uplifting display. The excitement soon bubbled over as we unfurled the parachute. All the trip members mingled and played with the students and it felt like a great celebration. Our departure was heart-wrenching as no one wanted to part with their newly found friends.

As we drove up the path to Sandi we could not quite believe that we were actually there after seeing so many photos and talking about it so much it was finally a reality. Upon our arrival we were greeted by some of the teachers who proceeded to take us on a tour of the school. We were shown every classroom and the reception we received from the students was amazing. They seemed to be fascinated by us and kept stroking our hair and telling us how beautiful we were. It was very overwhelming! This tour also showed us how cramped the classrooms were with large numbers of pupils in each class and often three students to a double desk. On our first day we also had our first experience of the 'long drop' toilets which made us feel a long way from our home comforts.

Following our tour the choir sang for us. They made the most powerful, harmonious sound and all clearly loved singing. It was obvious how bonded everyone in the choir was by the shared passion of song and dance. As soon as they opened their mouths we were blown away. Their tone of voice and harmonies blended together to create a sound so powerful and raw it made the hairs on the back of your neck stand up and tears well up in your eyes. We were then invited to join them which was without a doubt one of the most memorable moments of the whole trip.

Back in Umtata we visited Phelisa our bursary student from Sandi. We all met up in the library and gathered around to hear about her life at the Walter Sisulu University. She had settled in well and made a good circle of friends. She said that she was really enjoying her course and had recently gained a distinction in her English exam. She also thanked everyone at Berkhamsted for her bursary and explained that it had changed her life. She then gave us a quick tour of the University pointing out the Halls of Residence. While at Sandi, Rev and Mrs Golding and Mr Harvey were able to meet two Sandi learners who are applying for a Berkhamsted Bursary from January 2010.

After a long drive from Qunu we arrived at Silaka Nature Reserve just outside Port St. Johns. It was dark and the rain was pouring so there was very little visibility of our surroundings. We were assured that the views outside were spectacular and we knew that the promise of a beach just three hundred metres away was true when the sound of waves echoed around our four bungalows that night. Each evening one bungalow hosted a dinner for the others and it was very enjoyable to congregate every night towards the end of our trip having got to know each other better.

About eight hundred metres from Sandi is Ntsundwane Junior School which is linked to our Prep. School. Mr. Taylor had joined us especially to cement the friendship and upon arrival we met the Headmaster, Mr. Jizane who gave us a charming welcome. Speeches were made and gifts given followed by a tour of the school. As part of our greeting the School Choir performed traditional songs followed by a display of authentic dancing in cultural costumes. It was then our turn to entertain the learners with a nine metre parachute! This was well received and when we introduced the balloons and bubbles the excitement heightened. Joe's skill of creating animal shapes out of the balloons created something of a riot when we attempted to share them around! On top of this fun we were well fed by our generous hosts.

We also visited Dalisoka and Vinish Junior Schools. These schools were testament to the commitment of teachers and governors and also the government's policies on education. Both of these schools had consisted of basic rondavals until very recently. At Vinish a building project was underway and Dalisoka's new buildings were only a year old including a library/IT block although without any computers or books as yet!

On one of our visits to Sandi we were shown around some of the boarding accommodation. This was a humbling experience and the sight was certainly one of the more sobering parts of our visit. We glanced inside one rondaval to find four beds to house eight teenage boys. The rondaval was dingy and dusty but all had their uniform hanging proudly above their beds. The nearest fresh and reliable water supply was the river a kilometre walk away down a steep valley. These learners also had to cook for themselves. It was all a stark contrast to boarding at Berkhamsted!

We were also given an IsiXhosa lesson. We sat with Sandi learners and were taught many basic words such as 'molo' ('hello') and 'Ndisoka Engilane' ('I am from England'). It is all very well to write down Xhosa words but speaking it is another matter. Most of us tried and failed to master the all important clicks although Harry and Cam seemed to be naturals shouting out random Xhosa words for the rest of the trip.

Our last day at Sandi was an emotional one. We performed a short version of 'Romeo and Juliet' and some musical items and Joe's magic trick triggered an explosion of excited noise! Afterwards we felt we had done quite well, however this feeling was short lived once the Sandi Choir came in again and began to sing. Words cannot adequately describe the singing by the Sandi Choir. It seemed so different from anything you might hear in England. The sound produced was incredibly uplifting as every pupil sang so passionately. It created an atmosphere that made us all want to get up, dance and join in. We spent over an hour singing and dancing with the Sandi Choir and it seems amazing how music can bring together two very different cultures so easily.

After presenting our gifts it was time to say goodbye. This was an overwhelming experience as it indicated just how important our visit was to the Sandi pupils and staff. We were hugged by what seemed like everyone in the school and after many asking 'when are you coming back?' we were leaving for the final time - a bitter-sweet moment to end our trip on.